Around the World In Seven Days, Part II: Another Week in Astoria

Here is a sequel to Part I, with seven more countries to visit! (Where to go next? Egypt? Ecuador?)

1. Brazil (also see Malagueta): Brasilianville Café & Grill. This $4.99/lb. buffet will delight both the carnivore and the vegetarian. Spoon some buttered rice onto your plate, and start loading up on black beans, corn pudding, grilled fish, fried mandioca, acaraje, beef and carrot stew, battered chicken skewers, beet salad, and garlicky collards (the menu changes daily). If you crave more meat, go talk to the friendly guy at the grill... he'll fill up your plate with sirloin churrasco. Don't forget the exotic fruit shakes - I like the cacao pulp with milk and sugar. (Brasilianville Café & Grill: 43-12 34th Ave., 718-472-0090.)

2. Czech Republic: Koliba. If you dine here, I suggest fasting all morning and afternoon. Monstrous portions of pork or chicken schnitzel will challenge (and satisfy) the heartiest eater. Make sure to order the homemade tartar sauce on the side, and get the home fries with onion. Take some apple strudel home with you - you won't have any more room until tomorrow. (Koliba Restaurant: 31-11 23rd Ave., 718-626-0430. My grandma would have loved this place.)

3. France (Brittany, to be more specific): Cafe Triskell. At this tiny cafe, toothsome buckwheat crepes are served with a variety of fillings - I like the crumbly goat cheese, which arrives with a refreshing green salad on top of the big square crepe. Sweet crepes include apricot jam with almonds, and banana with buckwheat honey. Please be advised that this cafe is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays - I found out the hard way. (Cafe Triskell: 33-04 36th Ave., 718-472-0612.)

4. India: Seva. This restaurant is a local favorite. I found the paratha rather dry, but there was plenty of cheese in the palak paneer, and the spiced butternut squash soup was a winner. There are many vegan options, including a soy mirch masala. (Seva: 30-07 34th St., 718-626-4440.)

5. Mexico: (also see Tacos Mexico) Las Margaritas. This year, none of the food at the Broadway street fair appealed to my companion and me, so we ended up here. We ordered a couple of health-conscious specials...skirt steak on a spinach salad, and spicy shrimp tacos on soft, warmed corn tortillas (no beans and rice). Heartier dishes include fajitas, enchiladas and tacos al carbon. (Las Margaritas: 38-01 Broadway, 718-777-1707.)

6. United States (Southwest/Tex-Mex): Mojave. The beautiful backyard garden is the scene for
the consumption of countless fruit-infused margaritas. Service can be lackadaisical for lunch, but there's a reasonable two-course prix-fixe - I've enjoyed the salmon sandwich with chipotle aioli. I keep meaning to try the Mexican chocolate fondue. (Mojave: 22-36 31st St., 718-545-4100.)

7. Venezuela: Arepas Cafe. The best arepas in NYC are found here (sorry, Caracas Arepas). Slightly crispy on the outside, moist and dense within, the cornmeal pockets are large enough to hold a lot of goodies without overflowing. Fillings range from the exotic (truffle butter tuna with pico de gallo) to the traditional (shredded beef). $3 beers are served at happy hour - for a non-alcoholic alternative, try the phenomenal cafe de leche. (Arepas Cafe: 33-07 36th Ave., 718-937-3835.)

Patel Brothers

The weak economy has many of us turning towards comfort food. A dish of rice and beans is protein-packed, filling, and cheap. But did you know that it can also be... exciting? Walk down the vast aisles of Patel Brothers in Jackson Heights and you'll be amazed at all the varieties of rice and beans. The back wall holds a rainbow of orange, yellow, white, green, and brown lentils (urad? toor? masoor? chana? moong? I can't even keep track of them all). There are all kinds of grains - thin and thick flattened rice (poha), giant bags of rice, spicy flour rings, and puffed lotus seeds.

Endless condiments and spices line the shelves. Mango, lime, garlic pickles? Mint or onion chutney? (I think I'll have to bring a dictionary of Indian spices with me the next time I visit. How to use... amla? asafoetida?) There is also a fresh produce section, and a freezer packed with novelties like mint-chili "paneer poppers" and cashew-raisin ice cream. And if the spicy cornflakes in the breakfast aisle are just too adventurous for you, look past them; there's a box of... Cheerios.

Patel Brothers: 37-27 74th St., Jackson Heights, (718) 898-3445.

Voila,Tiffin Wallah!

When I'm ravenous, I can think of nothing more appealing than a thali: a variety of tasty Indian dishes served in small bowls on a round tray. The new Tiffin Wallah serves four different kinds: the eponymous Tiffin Wallah, the Gujarathi, the Sapadu (unavailable until the arrival of a new chef, according to the owner) and the South India.

The other day, I ordered the Tiffin Wallah and a friend chose the South India. We had to wait quite a while although the restaurant was almost empty, but we were to find that this wait was due to the utter freshness and loving preparation of the food.

My thali contained a crisp papadum, a buttery folded flatbread, a huge portion of rice pilaf, a cilantro-y, chickpea stew with lots of tomatoes, a creamy spinach curry with fluffy homemade cubes of paneer, salty mango pickles, spicy rasam soup, cooling raita and some comforting rice pudding. I was in heaven. My friend's South India consisted of a giant dosa filled with browned potatoes, an oniony uttapam that resembled a pizza, fried and steamed lentil cakes, lentil dipping sauce, coconut chutney, and some of the best badam halwah I'd ever tasted. This super-rich, warm dessert is basically just butter, almonds, saffron and sugar. It's the texture of baby food, but somehow this only adds to its appeal. Although I preferred my own thali, finding the South India to be quite starch-heavy, I could have eaten an entire bowl of that badam halwah.

Tiffin Wallah: 127 East 28th St., (212) 685-7301.

Rasam: A Cure For What Ails You

The summer-to-fall transition sometimes challenges my immunity. Last night, I was feeling the beginnings of a cold, and I craved something spicy. However, I wondered if a bowl of soup might be more effective.

I found the best medicine at Chennai Garden, which serves rasam, an incredibly spicy South Indian soup. The light tamarind broth boasts a huge whole red chili in addition to bay leaves, diced tomatoes and black mustard seeds. When I ordered it, the waiter tried to dissuade me. I shocked him by drinking up the whole bowl and barely touching my glass of water. My eyes were watering and my throat was burning, but I forgot I even had a cold.

When the waiter brought the check, I told him my reason for ordering the rasam. "It will make you feel better," he said encouragingly. Indeed, I woke up today and the cold was gone!

Chennai Garden: 129 East 27th St., (212) 689-1999.

The Best Mango Lassi In NYC

Yesterday was the latest in a long string of sweltering days, and I was in dire need of refreshment. I was craving mango lassi, the Indian yogurt shake. Most Indian restaurants in NYC serve a supersweet version of lassi made with canned mango juice. So, I was expecting the same when I ordered the drink at Hampton Chutney Co. But with my first sip, I noticed an immediate difference: the telltale pulpiness of fresh fruit. The sweetness of the lassi was mostly derived from just-pureed ripe mangos, not sugar. I believe Hampton Chutney Co. may serve the best mango lassi in NYC!

Hampton Chutney Co., 68 Prince Street (212) 226-9996.

Saravanaas

As I've written before, finding good Indian food in NYC is not an easy task. However, the opening of Saravanaas has truly improved the Indian restaurant scene!

Open since only last Thursday, this cheery little place was packed last night, even 30 minutes before closing. But although there were many patrons, the service was charming and attentive. (A word to the meatophiles: Saravanaas is completely vegetarian.)

The menu includes appetizers, a dosa corner, thalis, a rice corner and a bread corner. I am of the "try as much as you can" school, so I ordered a thali, or, combination meal. Paying lip service to moderation, I asked for the smallest thali, the mini tiffin.

Along came a round silver tray on which sat a gut-busting variety of food. "Is that all for me?" I asked, astonished. There was a Thermos-sized masala dosa with a side of lentil gravy, a portion of idli stew, a mound of roasted farina, coconut chutney and a spicy green mayonnaise-like sauce, and finally, a "sweetmeat." The masala dosa, a kind of crispy crepe, was ultra-light and contained a toothsome spiced mashed potato filling. I'm truly a fan of idli, the little lentil-flour frisbees that are somewhat akin to gnocchi, so I enjoyed the stew of carrots, green beans and idli with a bit of bay leaf and mustard seed. The chili-spiced farina was mixed with onions, tomatoes and peas. Everything was gloriously spicy. "Hot enough for you?" asked the waiter. "We want to see you glow!"

After enjoying a few bites of raisin-studded sweetmeat and a sip of mango lassi, it was finally time to go. (Upon leaving, I noticed a pile of advertisements for a yoga class. As if one could even think of exercising after such a meal!)

Saravanaas: 81 Lexington Ave., (212) 679-0204.

Kalustyan's Masala Café

If you're wandering around Curry Hill in search of some chana masala, you might be sidetracked by the orange lights of Kalustyan's Masala Café. Although you won't find your beloved North Indian favorites there, you will experience a magical meal of exotic spices and unusual flavors. (And you may have many questions for the waiters regarding the ingredients!)

Last night, my companion and I pounced upon the last table for two. Soon, we were tearing apart a puffy cheddar kulcha bread with gusto. We were quite hungry, as we'd been deliberating over where to eat for a little while. Our boldly flavored appetizers announced the chef's gutsy tastes: a bright pink tuna carpaccio, sprinkled with spicy edamame, was accented with anchovies, and thinly sliced Long Island duck was served with sweet poached figs.

Entrees showcased a pan-Asian flair; I noticed a congee on the menu as well as a Persian-influenced lobster preparation. My companion's monkfish entrée consisted of two generous hunks of cornmeal-crusted fish on a bed of bok choy. I myself enjoyed an entrée that I'm sure I will be returning to on cool fall nights: a hotpot of eggplant and caramelized onion on a bed of lemon rice, topped off with jicama slices and crunchy lentils. Cumin salt was a fragrant condiment.

Although I usually indulge in life-enhancing chocolate for dessert, I decided not to order the malted chocolate crème brulee in favor of the caramel kulfi in a spiced apple Cointreau soup. This dessert was perhaps my only regret of the evening, as the cone of ice milk was frozen solid and impossible to eat with a spoon. Next time, I will indulge in the creme brulee, or maybe venture over to the nearby Kalustyan's Market for 142 pastries, sweets and cookies.

Kalustyan's Masala Café: 115 Lexington Ave., (212) 686-5400.

Spice Grill (Closed as of 2006)

For many moons, I lamented the closing of Tiffin, a great Indian spot downtown. The graceful service, elegant presentation and richly spiced food made the restaurant one of my personal favorites.

So, I was very pleased to find that Tiffin had reopened as Spice Grill. When I stepped inside today, I was greeted by an impressive lunch buffet. Every weekday morning, Chef Jai Rao goes to the market to decide what the daily dishes will be. Today, the buffet included hot eggplant salad with black mustard seed, tandoori chicken, spicy lamb stew and crispy lentil fritters. I was in heaven as I garnished my plate with salty mango pickles and ladled on the cucumber raita and tamarind sauce. As I sat down to eat, I received a basket of hot crackly buttered nan to sop up the sauce with.

All selections were subtly spiced, greaseless and exceedingly tasty! I assure you that you will never look at an all-you-can-eat lunch buffet the same way after eating at Spice Grill.

Spice Grill: 18 Murray St., (212) 791-3511.

Brick Lane Curry House and Dowel Quality Products, Inc.

Variety is the spice of life, and a variety of spices adds much to one's life! At Brick Lane Curry House, the rust-colored walls are literally painted with spices. The crispy papadums that start the meal are redolent of asafoetida, and rice is fragrant with cloves (and fried onions and parsley). Although I loved my dakshimi (southern) curry, a profusion of peas, potatoes, eggplant, peppers, mushrooms and golden raisins in a rich green coconut sauce, I could have lived on the paneer kulcha. This piping hot, buttery pita bread was stuffed with toasted sesame seeds, parsley and small melted bits of salty cheese.

Brick Lane is extremely vegetarian-friendly; meat is cooked with separate utensils, and independent local farms provide the veggies. The menu is very descriptive; one item is candidly listed as providing "more pain and sweat than flavor."

If you find that you've stuffed yourself as full as the kulcha, head around the corner to Dowel Quality Products, Inc., for a bottle of fennel seeds to improve your digestion. While you're there, you can buy Pakistani rose petal preserves, a rainbow of red, white, green and yellow split peas, preserved lemons and every spice you can think of. But if you seek peace, love, money or a special heart's desire, purchase one of the candles in the shape of human figures. According to the folks at Dowel, a green figurine brings prosperity and a black figurine will grant you that special wish. But if you wish for a nice spicy curry, you don't have to indulge in any fancy rituals: just go to Brick Lane Curry House!

Brick Lane Curry House: 342 E. 6th St., (212) 979-2900. Dowel Quality Products, Inc: 91 1st Ave., (212) 979-6045.

Indian Food: Good and Bad

Good Indian food does not have to be expensive. In fact, last night I had a delicious snack of "Calcutta street food" for $2.50. Therefore, one of the great mysteries of New York is the existence of so many bad Indian restaurants.

As you know, my journal largely consists of raves; I don’t like to gratuitously bash an eatery. However, once in while an experience arises which is so awful that I feel compelled to write about it. Since I don’t like to dwell on the negative, I will end this review on a positive note with a glowing recommendation for Kati Roll Company.

Let me begin by explaining that 7th Avenue, the main drag in Park Slope, Brooklyn, is notorious for mediocre and expensive restaurants. A restaurant may open with lofty aspirations but will soon raise prices while reducing the quality of the food (Dizzy’s and Sotto Voce come to mind).

Therefore, I had hopes that Amin, the latest addition (or subtraction, depending on how one looks at it) to 7th Avenue would be at least mediocre. Even these modest hopes of mine were dashed. Mango lassi was sour as a pickle, while cucumber raita was as sugary as rice pudding. Mango chutney hadn't a hint of spice; it tasted like something you'd serve over pancakes, and saag paneer was a puddle of green baby food almost devoid of chunks of cheese. Papadum were ordered but did not arrive (maybe I should be thankful). Also, there were about 10 waiters who could not organize themselves; service was extremely slow even though the restaurant was only half full. After such an unappetizing meal, it seemed unfair to me that Amin charged extra for rice, raita and chutney.

For less than the price of the condiments at Amin, you can satisfy your taste buds at the Kati Roll Company. Kati serves cheap and delicious Calcutta snacks, mostly paratha (thin Indian pancakes) filled with tasty, exotic fillings. My $2.50 unda sandwich was a fresh, piping hot paratha, bursting at the seams with red onion, egg, cilantro sauce and spices. It only lasted until I got to Houston Street. (I would have gone back for another but my friends and I were very tired from laughing while watching Darrell Hammond at the Comedy Cellar, and besides, one of us needed to order some chestnut gelato at Caffé Dante.)

Kati Roll Company: 99 MacDougal St. (212) 420-6517.